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Gabb Letter

Gabb Letter 

Jan. 26, 1993

Dear Eric,

Eric, thank you for the wonderful river trip with the artists which Earth River made possible. The GABB/artists trip was very successful and its fruits will ripen in the coming weeks and months. Even without those fruits; a Bio Bio Song, video and Television spots, the human part of the trip was so strong that it justified all the effort. We’re thankful for your generosity and flexibility that made the trip possible. It was for me and all of the passengers very moving to see how solidarity, friendship and respect grew as both groups, Chilean and Americans reached out to each other.

Organizationally and professionally, the trip was carried off very well due to the skills of the guides, whom everyone highly admires. There were so many details on a trip like this and all were deftly taken care of. All the members of the group highly admired the generosity and spontenaiety of you and all the guides.

It was really nice for me - campaign aside - to have ten days of wind, water and currents, a break from the stressful reality of the day to day Bio Bio struggle. Rivers and river trips are good teachers and good healers.

The North Americans and Chileans on the trip are all going to contribute to the Bio Bio preservation campaign in some way, many of them very concretely. In a more subtle way they they have already done so and I’m thankful to have been on the trip and space where that happened and am appreciative that you let it happen.

Katherine Bragg
Grupo de Accion por el Bio Bio (GABB)

ANTONIA LÓPEZ DE BELLO 075 FONO/FAX: (562)737-5251

SANTIAGO DE CHILE

NRDC-newsletter

NRDC Newsletter

SEPTEMBER 1992 ISSUE SOJOURN IN THE WILD: NRDC AND THE BIO BIO
"One cannot judge the value of an untamed river solely by cash and kilowatts. We must consider it in spiritual, cultural, and aesthetic currencies as well." —Robert Kennedy, Jr.

As people have learned to harness the tremendous power of rivers, hydroelectric dams have proliferated. Today there are very few major waterways that still flow unimpeded from their source to their culmination in the sea. Those untamed rivers that do remain are not only majestic, but also environmentally vital as aquatic and terrestrial habitat for countless threatened species. A year ago, NRDC's International Program began work to save one such wild river, Chile's Rio Bio Bio, which is slated for massive hydroelectric development.

"Chilean environmentalists con- us for help in their fight to save the river," explains NRDC International Program Director Jacob Scherr, "and we decided to investigate." Senior Research Associate Glenn Prickett spent hundreds of hours studying the proposed project, traveling to Chile in January 1992. Scherr and Prickett worked in concert with the Grupo de Accion por el Bio-Bio (GABB), a coalition of Chilean environmental and human rights groups opposing the project. GABB had experienced great difficulty getting their message heard. To draw attention to the river's plight, NRDC decided to organize a rafting trip down the tumultuous Bio Bio.

"To the decision-makers, the remote upper Bio Bio is an abstraction," say Scherr. 'To be an effective advocate for it, there's no substitute for going there." This past summer, Senior NRDC Attorney Robert Kennedy, Jr. joined Earth River Expeditions on on a conservation awareness trip down the Great Whale River in Northern Quebec, also threatened by massive hydropower development. This past winter, an NRDC group again joined forces with Earth River, who again donated their time, expertise and equipment, on an expedition down the Bio Bio. In addition to NRDC experts, the trip contingent included Chileans representing a range of political and cultural dispositions, from environmentalists to leading businessmen. A total of 49 people joined in the privately financed convoy, the largest rafting expedition ever to brave the Bio.

The Bio Bio rises out of the Andes, near the Argentine border, and makes its way clear across the country to the city of Concepcion, on the Pacific coast. Its length, volume, and the enormous size of its watershed, make the Bio Bio Chile's most important river. In its upper reaches, the river surges through spectacular canyons, gorges, and steep, forested valleys-complex ecosystems that support a multitude of threatened plant and animal species. Further to the west, the river flows through rich agricultural lowlands, finally culminating in the estuaries of Concepcion and the Gulf of Arauco where its nutrients feed the nation's richest fishery.

Like many of the remote, undeveloped places left on Earth, the valleys of the upper Bio Bio are indigenous lands. The region has long been inhabited by Pehuenche Indians. Approximately 9000 Pehuenche still live on their ancestral lands, descendants of the skilled mounted warriors who managed to arrest the Spanish Conquest at the banks of the Bio Bio. The Pehuenche continue to live sustainably by traditional methods of farming, to speak a unique language, and to observe their own religion, closely bound to the environment.

The Bio Bio occupies a central place in Chile's geography and its history. It has also come to figure prominently in the economic plans of this rapidly-growing nation. To power its economic growth, Chile has increasingly sought to develop plentiful, domestic sources of energy. In the 1950s, the government began exploring the possibility of hydropower development on the upper Bio Bio. Technical and economic feasibility studies were carried out in the 60s and 70s by ENDESA, a state-owned utility privatized during the regime of General Pinochet.

By the late 1970s, ENDESA had laid out plans to build six large dams, which would generate some 2700 megawatts of electricity, a 128% increase in the nation's generating capacity. The company has now completed construction of preliminary works for the first dam, Pangue. It was not until late in 1990, however, that a study of the project's environmental impacts was commissioned. And despite extensive study of the area over the course of two decades, ENDESA did not acknowledge the existence of the Pehuenche communities until 1986 and then did not notify Pehuenche leaders of its plans until 1990.

If carried out, these plans will have a profound and devastating impact on both the Bio Bio's complex ecology and its unique human communities. The project's dams and reservoirs would convert the entire extent of the wild, upper river into a series of artificial lakes, inundating temperate forests rich in rare and endangered species. Roads built into the area will bring a wave of logging as well as tourists, drawn by the lakes. These in turn will threaten the surrounding watershed with deforestation, erosion, and pollution. Concerns about impacts on downstream irrigators and on the rich estuarine fisheries near Concepcion, as well as about the long term safety of large dams in this seismically and volcanically volatile region have not been publicly addressed.

The damming of the Bio Bio will have an equally profound impact on the lives of the Pehuenche. Flooding, road-building, and excavation will force many of the Pehuenche to relocate. Indirect impacts are likely to include disease and crime brought by an influx of workers from the outside world, the loss of the Indians' traditional livelihood, farming, and the collapse of their communal social structure with privatization of their land. As one Pehuenche cacique, or chief, said "It will not bring any benefit to our community, only damage." "The Indians of the region are very poor," NRDC attorney Kennedy elaborates. "With the loss of their long term agricultural base, they will face greatly increased pressure to migrate to urban slums, where they will integrate into Chilean society at its lowest rung and be trampled." He believes that the Pehuenche culture, religion, and language will not survive the construction of the dams. "We have our own way of talking to God," a Pehuenche man told him, "These are the things we have inherited from our parents and grandparents If we moved somewhere else, our children would lose the tradition.''

In the larger context of Chile, however, there is tremendous pressure to build the dams, as well as reluctance to challenge the government on the Indians' behalf. After a generation spent under Pinochet, Chilean democracy is still reemerging. Government and economic leaders, eager to demonstrate stability and continuity to potential outside investors, believe it is vital to move ahead with the dams. Chile's indigenous peoples are a small and marginalized group, and their interests have largely been swept aside by the desire for growth And because Chilean law does not recognize communal ownership, the Pehuenche do not hold title to the land they have inhabited for a millennium. Furthermore, Chilean law includes few environmental regulations or requirements.

NRDC's International Program is working with Chilean environmentalists to help balance this complex equation of economic development, indigenous rights, energy, and environment. The rafting expedition was extraordinarily successful. It garnered extensive media coverage and sparked the very first national debate on the project, which had been considered an accomplished fact. At a packed press conference in Santiago and in numerous interviews during the following week, NRDC urged Chileans to reconsider the dams and explore energy efficiency and other alternative means of meeting energy demand. While in Chile, Kennedy, Scherr, and Prickett also met with government officials and utility executives. "By the end of the week," says Scherr, "it seemed like everyone in Chile, including President Aylwin, was aware of our presence—and our message." Back in the United States. NRDC is working to address the very real pressures for building the dams. As in much of its work, the International Program has focused on the financing of the project as a means of checking unsustainable development. To carry out construction of Pangue, ENDESA has applied to borrow $50 million from the International Finance Corporation, a branch of the World Bank that handles loans to private entities. NRDC and CABB so far have succeeded in delaying the loan application until ENDESA completes studies of the environmental impacts and reviews of all energy alternatives. NRDC is pushing the IFC to permit full public review and participation in what is a precedent-setting case.

Through GABB, NRDC is working to equip the indigenous people to confront ENDESA, the nation's most profitable company. NRDC is also working with GABB on the development of economic alternatives for the Pehuenche, some of whom now see employment by ENDESA as their only option. Finally, NRDC is undertaking research on energy conservation This fall, NRDC will sponsor an exchange between U.S. and Chilean utility executives to discuss this approach, which has successfully averted the need for hydroelectric development in America's Pacific Northwest. Kennedy believes that the comparison to America's own great rivers is both apt and cautionary. He likens the damming of the Bio Bio to the U.S. government's decision to dam Yosemite's wild Hetch Hetchy valley in 1913, a project carried out in the face of ardent protests by John Muir and other conservationists. "Seventy five years later, even the most growth-oriented Americans concede the great mistake we made in destroying that special wilderness," he says thoughtfully. "Hetch Hetchy was our nation's patrimony, a symbol and defining element of the American character that we have lost forever."

Thirty years ago, Wallace Stegner wrote "Something will have gone out of us as a people if we ever let the remaining wilderness be destroyed. We need wilderness preserved—as much of it as is still left, and as many kinds—because it was the challenge against which our character as a people was formed." Kennedy says T h e Bio Bio occupies precisely this central place in Chile's history and identity. Its loss will diminish the Chileans, just as damming Hetch Hetchy diminished us.'' It will not only be a loss for Chileans, but for all people. Kennedy says, "One cannot judge the value of an untamed river solely by cash and kilo- watts. We must consider it in spiritual, cultural, and aesthetic currencies as well." Wild places and wild rivers have a value far beyond their use for exploitation, a value for all people. With the unstinting support of members, NRDC will continue to fight for the preservation of the magnificent Bio Bio.

Return to Earth River Ethic

Magpie Trip Letter

Dear Magpie trip Participant:

Thank you for choosing Earth River's Expedition on the Magpie River. Every effort will be made to make your trip a safe and enjoyable experience. This hidden link section of the web site was designed to help you prepare for your trip. Enclosed you will find information on equipment, weather, travel and other necessary information. Please read it carefully. If you have any further questions please contact our office.

The Magpie expedition is remote and moderately strenuous so participants should make sure that they are in good physical condition. This trip is an "active" vacation, as you will be paddling rafts, inflatable kayaking, sea kayaking, stand up paddle boarding and hiking. Participants may choose to ride in a gear boat if they would prefer not to paddle. As soon as you have secured your flights to Sept Iles, please e-mail this information to Earth River at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. Those participants who are driving to Sept Iles from the northeast can contact our office so we can help you secure the ferry reservation across the St. Lawrence.

Remember you should plan to arrive in Sept Iles by 10:30 AM on the arrival date (Saturday or Sunday) and will be free to fly back out at the trip's conclusion, any time on Saturday or Sunday (the tip is 8 days). If you have any other questions please drop me a note and I look forward to meeting you up there.

Sincerely,

Eric Hertz
Earth River Expeditions 

Getting There

Through Chile:

DAY 1: UNITED STATES

Participants take an evening flight (On their own) from the U.S. to Santiago, Chile. Note: For information on joining the trip through Argentina, please see the "Getting there" section of the site. If you have any questions about the differences between the two options contact our office.

DAY 2: SANTIAGO, CHILE / PUERTO VARAS

Arriving in Santiago this morning, we pass through customs and transfer (on our own) upstairs (in the same airport) to out hour and a half flight sough to Puerto Montt. We arrive in Puerto Montt in the late morning, walk outside and (on our own) take a taxi to the Cumbres Puerto Varas Hotel in the gorgeous Chilean town of Puerto Varas where a room will be waiting in your name. Situated on a spectacular lake, with a Mount Fuji like, snow-capped volcanoe rising directly out of it, Puerto Varas is one of the most beautiful towns in Chile. The afternoon is free to explore the town. In the early evening we meet the Earth River guide, Maria, in the hotel lobby and go out for a welcome dinner.

Note: It is simpler, faster and less expensive to meet the trip through Chile but if you are already planning to be in Buenos Aires then meeting us through Argentina probably makes the most sense.

Argentina option:

DAY 1: U.S. / BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Evening flight from the United States to Buenos Aires, Argentina

DAY 2: BUENOS AIRES / BARILOCHE / ESQUEL

This Morning you arrive in Buenos Aires and tranfer by taxi ($40) to the national airport. (A minimum of two hours should be left for this transfer). A late morning flight from Buenos Aires gets you into Bariloche in the early afternoon. A short taxi ride (on your own) takes you to the Bariloche Bus station where you board a comfortable coach bus to ther town of Esquel (5 hours). In Esquel, you hire a taxi for the 1 hour drive to the border. taxi from Bariloche to the border costs $250 - $300 and makes economic sense for two or three people traveling together. The first hour of the ride takes you past a series of beautiful mountain lakes. Leaving the mountains, you enter the wild and desolate Patagonian Steppe, a dry landscape made famous by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid who fled to this region in the 1800’s. With the Andes off in the distance to the west, you reach the border in the late afternoon. After passing through the Argentina and Chile borders, you are met by an Earth River representative and vehicle. Crossing into Chile, the landscape dramatically changes from the barren Argentina pampas to the lush mountains of the Futaleufu Valley. We reach the Terminador Camp trailhead in the afternoon and meet the rest of the group who have come in through Chile. (See Futaleufu Itinerary)

Note: The logistics for meeting the trip via Argentina can be explained in better detail by the Earth River office. Earth River will also credit you a $200 per person refund to help offset the hotels, buses and food for your arrival and departure.

Travel Times Bariloche to Futaleufu River: 9 hours, Taxi Buenos Aires international airport to National airport: (leave 3 hrs.) Buenos Aires to Bariloche (flight): 2 hours Bariloche to Esquel (bus): 5 hours Esquel to border (taxi): 1 hour2 Border crossings: (taxi)1 hour Border to Futaleufu River (Earth River Van): 1 hour

Cost:

Reciprocity tax: $160 (note: must be payed on line before arriving in Argentina.),Taxi between International & National Airports in Buenos Aires: $80. R/T Flight from Buenos Aires to Bariloche: $675. Taxi from Bariloche to border: $500 or bus from Bariloche to Esquel & taxi Esquel to border $75. (Minus $200 Earth River stipend)

Futaleufu itinerary

MULTI-LODGE DAY BY DAY

The Earth River Multi-lodge trip on the Futaleufu is the "The World's Wildest, Most Comfortable" river trip.  The unique journey takes you from one spectacular lodge to the next while passing through one of the most gorgeous river landscapes in the world.  With a group size limited to 12, 3-1 client to guide ratio. chef prepared meals and 4 star lodges, this one of a kind adventure is suited for anyone with a spirit for adventure regardless of experience level. 


DAY 1: U.S.

Participants take an evening flight (On their own) from the U.S. to Santiago, Chile.


DAY 2: SANTIAGO / PUERTO MONTT / PUERTO VARAS

Arriving in Santiago this morning, we pass through customs and transfer upstairs (in the same airport) to our hour and a half flight south to Puerto Montt. We arrive in Puerto Montt in the late morning, walk outside and take a taxi to the Cumbres Puerto Varas Hotel in the gorgeous Chilean town of Puerto Varas on the shores of Lago Llanquihue, where a room will be waiting in your name. With Mount Fuji-like, snow-capped, Vulcano Osorno, rising directly out of the deep blue water, Puerto Varas is one of the most beautiful towns in all of South America. The afternoon is free to explore the town. In the early evening we meet the Earth River guide, Maria, in the hotel lobby and go out for a welcome dinner.


DAY 3: PUERTO VARAS / RIO FUTALEUFU / RAFT TRAINING / LONCONAO COTTAGES

After breakfast Maria escorts us to the commuter flight to Chaiten. The 45 minute flight is spectacular as we follow a rugged coastline of lush deep fiords that connect to wild rivers framed within a verdant rain forest to the snow line of the jagged Patagonia Andes. Just before landing we get a bird's eye of the still smoldering Chaiten Volcanoe which erupted in 2008 burying much of the town of Chaiten in cement-like ash. We board the van and drive 3 hours past roaring turquoise rivers, hanging glaciers and deep blue lakes to our starting point on the Futaleufu. After a safety talk and flip drill we run a series of marvelous class 4 rapids including Mundoca, Wina and Tiburon. Two safety catarafts escort us down the river. In the afternoon, we take out and drive 15 minutes to gorgeous, Lago Lonconao and the 4/5 star cottages we will spend the evening at. Designed by a renowned Argentine architect, these stunning cottages are ideally located between the upper and lower Futaleufu Canyons. Each cottage has two large bedrooms, a spacious “great room” (living room & dining room) and a large deck with chairs overlooking the wild, clear lake and snow-capped peaks rising out of it. In the immediate vicinity of the cottages are half a dozen, adventure activities including; sea kayaking, stand up paddle boarding, mountain biking, swimming, fishing and hiking trails to other lakes.

Note: Meals at the Lonconao Cottages are prepared by the guides.


DAY 4: LONCONAO COTTAGES/ MOUNTAIN BIKING /  INFLATABLE KAYAKING CLASS II/III ESPOLON RIVER / LONCONAO COTTAGES

Leaving the cottages this morning we board mountain bikes for a beautiful 5 mile, relatively flat mountain ride along the clear, teal colored Rio Espolon takes us to our inflatable kayak put in just below a class 6 cataract called “Dragon’s Throat”. We spend the next three hours running wonderful class 2-3 rapids. (Note: Clients who prefer not to go in individual kayaks have the option of paddling in a small, guided raft). A ten minute drive takes us back to the Lonconao cottages for the evening. In the afternoon, there is an optional 3 hour r/t hike to a beautiful wilderness lake surrounded by old an growth forest. Those guests not wishing to do the hike can relax, swim and kayak right on the Lonconao Lake property.


DAY 5: LONCONAO COTTAGES / FUTALEUFU RAFTING / LONCONAO COTTAGES

Today, we run the class 5 *Infierno Canyon, with five major Rapids; Infierno, Purgatorio, Danza De Los Angels, Dynamite and Escala De Jacoba. We then spend the next hour running some class 3+ rapids down to spectacular class 5 -6 Zeta Rapid. Here the river flows through a narrow Z-shaped flume cut into solid granite. On the cliff just below the Zeta is a 10 to 42 foot high cliff jump into the aerated blue pool below the rapid. The aerated water cushions the impact by nearly half. Lunch is served on smooth ledges at Zeta. In the afternoon we raft a series of wonderful class 4 rapids including; Isla, Caos, Wild Mile and Casa Salvage (Wild Thing). For our final dinner at the Lonconao Cottages, we have a traditional Chilean Asado (roasted sheep over a fire).

*The Infierno Canyon is only safe at medium and low flows. If the water’s too high, we will drive around inferno Canyon and put in below. 

Note: The decision, to allow or not allow someone to run Infierno is always left up to the guides

Note: Class 4 participants have the option of hiking on a trail around short sections of the bigger rapids.


DAY 6: LONCONAO COTTAGES / INFLATABLE KAYAKING CLASS 3 RIO AZUL / PEUMA LODGE

This morning we board mountain bikes and ride for an hour down to our put in on the turquoise, class 3, Rio Azul. The narrow dirt road winds its way past beautiful small farms and through dense forests while gradually dropping 350 feet down to the river. We are now well trained in kayaks and spend the next 4 hours negotiating wonderful class 3 rapids on the Azul down to the confluence with the Futaleufu. The views along the way of the snow-capped peaks rising from the brilliant turquoise water are stunning. This is one of the most beautiful class three beginner inflatable kayak runs in the world. (a small, guided raft is available for those not wanting to kayak). Upon reaching the confluence, we board the van for the 15 minute drive to the Peuma Eco-Lodge for the evening. Situated in its own private valley, on a small Futaleufu tributary the lodge’s mile long driveway takes us into a hidden valley ringed with mountains on all sides. Each of the Peuma's beautifully appointed cabins are linked to the main great room and dining facility by boardwalks. The view from the dining room, deck and wooden hot tub of  Teton-like spires rising 6,000 feet above the forest floor is the type of view that people imagine when they think of Patagonia.


DAY 7: PEUMA LODGE / FUTALEUFU RAFTING / RIO BLANCO CANYONING / FUTALEUFU RAFTING / PEUMA LODGE

This morning we board the rafts and spend the next hour rafting some fun class 3+ - 4 rapids down to the confluence with the Rio Blanco slot canyon. After a safety briefing, we begin a remarkable journey through this hidden cleft in the Patagonia Andes. Hiking, climbing and swimming is the only way to traverse this incredible natural labyrinth of white boulders, clear azure pools and stunning waterfalls. Lunch will be at the base of one of the falls. When we exit the canyon, we board the rafts and run some of the most exhilarating rapids on the trip including; Terminador and Himalayas (with the biggest waves on the river). We spend the evening at the Pauma Lodge.


DAY 8: PEUMA LODGE / LAGO OBSESSION  HIKE / STAND UP PADDLE BOARDING / PEUMA LODGE

Hiking from the lodge this morning, the strenuous hike takes us past impressive waterfalls as we climb steeply out of the Futaleufu Valley through an enchanted forest of ancient hardwood trees.  After three hours we crest the ridge and arrive at stunning Lago Obsession. With its dramatic landscape of sculptured stone, snow and ice, this miniature, hanging blue lake is a masterwork of nature’s artistry and a rarely visited scenic highlight of Patagonia. Rarely does one find so much dramatic scenery in such a relatively small area. Shrouded in a vast expanse of old growth Lenga trees and clinging to the canyon’s northern wall, the views in every direction from the stand up paddle board are astounding. Cut by the glacier, the intimate 10 acre body of water is like a giant bottomless swimming pool. There’s a surreal feeling from the deck of a stand up paddle board as the water suddenly goes from a few feet to an over one hundred deep blue abyss. The lake is ringed by native old growth Lenga trees. A dramatic 2,500 vertical foot partially ice-enshrouded granite tooth is on the fourth. Cut by the glacier, in a wind free bowl, the glass-smooth water often reflects a perfect mirror image of the other worldly landscape. Condors can often be seen soaring in the updrafts. Later in the afternoon, we hike back down to the Peuma Lodge for the evening.

NOTE: Optional day’s activity: For those people not wishing to make the strenuous hike up to Obsession Lake there will be analternate less strenuus hike up the beautiful Rio Azul Valley to a waterfall. 


DAY 9: PEUMA LODGE / RIO FUTALEUFU RAFTING / YELCHO LODGE 

After breakfast we take a short, 10 minute, downhill mountain bike trip to the rafts. We then run a dozen major rapids including; Puente Colgante, Alfombra Majica, El Cojin, Toro, Mundoca, Wina and Tiburon, among others. We end the day with two big class 5 rapids (optional) Mas O Menus and Casa Piedra. After the last rapid the canyon boasts some of its most impressive scenery with grand vistas of towering mountains and glaciers. In the early afternoon we board the van for a beautiful one hour trip to the Yelcho Lodge.  Framed with a bowl of giant mountains, the hand-built wooden lodge rests within thousands of private acres on the edge of Yelcho lake which is the body of water the Futalefu flows into. The lodge has a mile of wild lake front property and numerous hiking trails. If time allows there is a hike to where a glacier vent of deep blue ice, meets the rain forest. We spend the night at the lodge or in comfortable cabins. That night we have a farewell dinner.


DAY 10: YELCHO LODGE / CHAITEN / PUERTO MONTT / SANTIAGO

After breakfast we board the van for the 1 hour drive to the Chaiten airport. We board the plane for the flight back to Puerto Montt. Upon landing there is usually enough time to transfer to Puerto Varas for lunch or shopping (on one's own). In the afternoon, individuals transfer (on their own) to the airport to catch our domestic flight to Santiago and then our international flight back home to the U.S..

NOTE: When you arrive back in Puerto Montt, the Earth Rver guide, Maria, will meet you with the extra bags you left at the start of the trip and help coordinate your travel into Puerto Varas for lunch or where ever else you would like to go. Maria will also hold your bags for you until you leave so that you are not burdened with your bags while at lunch or walking around Puerto Varas.


DAY 11: UNITED STATES

This morning we arrive in the United States and transfer to our connecting flights.

Futaleufu Gear and Clothing Pack List

Please make sure you bring the following things. Some Items have links to products we reccomend to simply buying items from the pack list, any other brands items similar to what written or linked will also work perfectly.  

[ ] Zippering duffle bag (70-100 liters) Medium size, light weight, Used for the Pueto Varas to Futaleufu portion of the the river trip. When you leave the hotel in Puerto Varas you will pack your things into the duffle bag for for the flight to Patagonia.  The bag you fly down with as well as anything else you don't need for the river portion of the trip can safely be left with the guide Maria, until you return at the trip's conclusion -  https://amzn.to/3VoNsT5

[ ]*Waterproof paddle jacket - https://amzn.to/3tQf6wx

[ ] 2 quick drying synthetic shirts (also known as Synchilla, fleece, pile, polypro or Capilene) 1 heavy weight, 1 medium weight.

Womans: Heavy - https://amzn.to/3EXIN4Q , Medium - https://amzn.to/3tWHU6C

Mens: Heavy - https://amzn.to/3V3UuN2 , Medium - https://amzn.to/3gsbFJa

[ ] *River shoes Five-Ten approach shoes or Astral river shoes  IMPORTANT NOTE: five-ten approach shoes with "Stealth soles" are the best river shoe.  These will be great for the canyoning, kayaking and rafting and will also be useful as light weight hiking shoes in the future. NOTE: They will not be good for hiking on this trip becasue they will be wet from the water activities. - https://amzn.to/3U54btk

[ ] Water bottle with locking carabineer Note: Carbineer must lock so that if a boat flips there is no way to get hooked on the carabineer. Do not bring non-locking carabineers - https://amzn.to/3TVIZWR

[ ] Light/medium weight hiking boots/shoes ( For Lago Obsession hike) Womans - https://amzn.to/3OKHABz , Mens - https://amzn.to/3OyXI9a

[ ] Small, lightweight day pack with belt strap. ( for Obsession hike.) (1 per coouple) https://amzn.to/3gt49xF

[ ] Sun glasses with neck strap (Chums are a safe neck strap) Womans - https://amzn.to/3gseFVW , Mens - https://amzn.to/3TV8dVe

[ ] Quality rain jacket with hood. - Womans - https://amzn.to/3Ou2xjT , Mens - https://amzn.to/3i82Q7Z

[ ] 6 pair of underwear

[ ] Wet suit socks (thin) (to be worn inside your river shoes)

[ ] 3 pair of socks ( synthetic quick drying)

[ ] 3 pairs of cotton socks

[ ] Medium weight jacket (down pillow jackets) Womans - https://amzn.to/3Ewt8s8 , Mens - https://amzn.to/3gtwvYN

[ ] 2 short sleeved shirts (any material)

[ ] Long pants for evening (any material) 

[ ] Quick dry pants (synthetic material)

[ ] Comfortable pants 

[ ] Long sleeved shirt (any material)

[ ] Bathing suit

[ ] Quick drying shorts (to wear over your wetsuit for protection when you canyoneer because you often are sliding on your rear end. (both men and women need to bring them.)

[ ] Sunscreen (strong)

[ ] Toilet kit 

EARTH RIVER PROVIDES:
All multi-sport gear, custom made sotar rafts, inflatable kayaks, mountain bikes, 
electricity at all lodges, Wi-fi some of the nights, Sat Phone, Defibulator. 

OPTIONAL:

[ ] Paddling gloves (bike gloves) or thin neoprene gloves (if your hands get cold easily)

[ ] Personal medication

[ ] Sandals

[ ] Breakdown fishing pole

[ ] Camera, SD card, and soft waterproof case (no metal ammo cans)

[ ] Binoculars

[ ] Book

[ ] Journal and pen

[ ] Chap stick. feminine products, other personal needs

[ ] Gopro Camera - https://amzn.to/3OwD0qm

IMPORTANT NOTE:

Each season a few people (approx. 2 %) end up in Chile without their belongings. By the time they receive them from the air carrier, often the trip is nearly over. Because this is a real possibility we highly recommend the following steps to protect yourself. Pack all necessary river gear (fleece, paddle jacket, river shoes, hat, sun glasses, bathing suit, etc.) into the largest legal carry on bag you can find and don’t check it. Pack everything else in a regular suitcase. This way if you become separated from you checked bag you will have the most important things for the river as well as the clothes on your back for camp. A couple of years ago we started recommending this packing plan to our clients. Since then we have averaged about 3 guests a season who arrived in Chile without their checked bags. In each case they had packed their river gear in carryons and all were able to complete the trip with little discomfort.

Futaleufu general information

 

 

CANCELLATION INSURANCE:

Trip Insurance for your flights and expedition is mandatory on all Futaleufu multi-lodge trips. It is difficult to fill a spot that is left vacant by a cancellation and these small, boutique lodges are reserved and paid for by Earth River many months in advance. If by any chance you have to cancel your trip, only trip insurance will protect your investment. Insurance will cover every aspect of your trip including: your deposit, lost baggage and unforeseeable medical emergencies and evacuation. It will also cover additional transportation costs in case you have to be caught up to the expedition due to delays with your international flight.

ALL GUESTS must e-mail their flight information in and out of Puerto Montt to Earth River’s office at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so we know your schedule. The e- mail should include; Futaleufu trip date, date leaving US, flight # and arrival time into Puerto Montt as well as the flight # and departure time leaving Puerto Montt at the end of the trip.

 

GETTING THERE:

YOUR RESPONSIBILITY: International flight from your country to Santiago, Chile. Transfer (in same airport) to flight south to Puerto Montt. Fly to Puerto Montt (1.7 hrs.). Taxi to hotel in Puerto Varas (1/2 hr.)


MEETING PLACE: We will be meeting at the Cumbres Puerto Varas Hotel in Puerto Varas which is located at: Imperial 0561, Puerto Varas, Chile. (http:hotelcumbrespatagonicas.com/en Phone: 065-222000.) You should plan to arrive at the hotel anytime on Friday afternoon (except for private charters and the Dec. 26th departure). When you arrive in Puerto Montt, walk outside the airport and hire a taxi (12,500 pesos or $30) to take you to the hotel where a room will be waiting in your name. The group will meet the Earth River guide that evening in the hotel lobby at 6:30 for our welcome dinner. The Earth River land guide in Puerto Montt, Maria, speaks English and will be there to greet you. In case you have any problems (travel related, etc.) she can be reached as follows: Cell phone (calling her from the U.S.) 011-569-93212995, Calling from Santiago, Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas; 09-93212995. Her email is: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure Maria's contact information is with you in case you have any problems. She accessible by phone at all times.

Important note: It is possible to do this trip in 10 days rather then 11. If you are only able to take a week off from work it is possible to do the trip leaving the U.S. on Friday evening rather than Thursday evening. In order to do this, you will need to schedule an international flight that arrives into Santiago early enough Saturday morning to catch a flight down to Puerto Montt that arrives no later than 10:30 AM. There are a number carriers that offer such flights. If you need help coordinating this please contact our travel agent, Gilda (see below).

 

WHAT’S INCLUDED:

All Futaleufu multi-lodge expeditions include: Hotel in Puerto Varas and dinner (night one), the B&B in Futaleufu (night two) and 7 additional nights in spectacular private lodges in the Futaleufu Valley. Also included is ground transportation from Puerto Varas to the Puerto Montt Airport and from Chaiten to the river and back.  All meals, from dinner (Puerto Varas) day 2 until breakfast day 9  (wine or beer with dinner) are also included.  All guided services and activities included in the detailed itinerary are included.

Note:  A masseuse (separate charge) is available at the Cumbres Hotel on night one and the Uman Lodge on night three. 

 

WHAT’S NOT INCLUDED:

International air to Santiago and inner country r/t air from Santaigo to Puerto Montt and from Puerto Montt to Chaiten ($250)*. Also not included is the taxi from Puerto Montt Airport to hotel in Puerto Varas and the taxi from the Puerto Montt airport back to Puerto Varas for lunch the final day and back to the airport. Lunch in Puerto Varas that final day is also not included. Single rooms (see single rooms section below) are not included. Other travel related expenses such as, but not limited to: trip insurance, passports, medical costs, or other transportation costs resulting from a deviation from our itinerary asre not included. End of trip gratuities to the guides are not included as is the lodge masseuse. If you are delayed for any reason (missed flight) and unable to reach Puerto Montt in time to make the commuter flight to Chaiten, we can catch you up but you will be responsible for the cost of a new seat on the next available Chaiten flight and any extra hotels and meals as well as the ground transportation in Chaiten necessary to catch you up to the trip (an Earth River agent will help you arrange these things). Trip insurance will cover these additional expenses. 
* Important Note: The $250 charge for the R/T flight fom Puerto Montt to Chaiten will be added to the balance of your payment. Earth River will secure these seats because they can not be purchased on line.

 

GETTING THERE:

Airfare from the US to Puerto Montt, Chile is not included in the trip price and must be arranged  independently.  When booking your flight you will need to arrive in Puerto Montt on Friday except on private charters and the December 18th, 26th and 31st trips. If you're planning on leaving the U.S. a day late (on Friday evening) and skip the Puerto Varas portion of the trip, then you will need to arrive in Puerto Montt by 10:30 AM on Saturday morning in order to catch the commuter flight to Chaiten. On the return (at the end of the trip) you will be back in Puerto Montt by 4:00 PM from Chaiten so book your flight back to Santiago at the latest possible time that ensures you can catch your flight back to the U.S. You do not need more than two hours between your arrival time in Santiago and your departure flight back to the U.S. departure back to Santiago. International flights to the U.S. from Santiago seldom leave before 9:00 P.M. and national flights are rarely delayed so there will be no problem making any connections in Santiago.

*Important note: If you are planning to arrive a day late (because of time constraints) and are delayed on your international flight and unable to make the national flight that arrives in Puerto Montt by 10:30 AM, you will still be able to do the trip but you may have to overnight in Santiago or possibly even Puerto Montt. The Earth River guide in Puerto Montt, Maria, (cell from within Chile: 09-95444941) will help take care of these logistics as well as catching you up to the trip when you arrive in Puerto Montt Saturday evening or Sunday morning. In order to you will need to purchase a new commuter ticket to Chaiten and hire someone to drive you from Chaiten to the river. You will be responsible for these additional expenses which is why it’s best to purchase trip insurance. Remember, travelers insurance should cover the additional expenses due to a delay in flights.

 

ACCOMODATIONS:

Your first night will be at the Cumbres Puerto Varas Hotel in beautiful Puerto Varas. The seven nights in Patagonia will be spent at 4 small,  spectacular lodges and one  B&B  on the edge the town of Futaleufu.

 

CONDITIONING:

The Futaleufu trip takes place during our winter and passengers should make sure that they remain in good physical condition. This trip is an “active” vacation, as you will be paddling rafts, whitewater inflatable kayaks, lake kayaking and standup paddle boards. You will also be canyoning, hiking and mountain biking. Obsession Lake is perhaps the most spectacular and beautiful natural feature in the Futaleufu Valley. Hiking up there and back in one day is the most arduous activity on the expedition. It is worth getting in shape for. For those guests not wanting to do the Obsession hike we have a wonderful alternative which includes a hike up the turqupoise Azul River Valley to a beautiful.

 

EXPERIENCE LEVEL:

Because half a day is dedicated to raft training, it is not necessary to have previous whitewater experience. We have had many first time rafters paddle the entire Futaleufu (see a number articles on web site which were written by first time rafters), but this is up to the guides and the individual. *Note: Anyone not wishing to do the strenuous hike up to Lago Obsession can do a number of other things including a shorter hike or a longer horseback ride.  *Note: Because Earth River can not screen the paddling ability and physical condition of participants prior to the expedition, the guides will ultimately decide who paddles and where, especially when it comes to Infierno Canon and Terminador rapid.**  We ask you to respect their professional opinion not only for your own safety, but also for the safety of others. The results of your swim test will help the guides with this determination.  Running certain portions of the river are water level dependent and there are high water cut offs for some of the more exposed class 5 rapids. 
**
Note: Even without Infierno Canyon and Terminador Rapid, there are still over 30 impressive rapids on the river to run.  

 

PASSPORTS:

You will need a current passport for traveling in Chile. You do not need a special visa for Chile, Argentina, or Peru. If you plan on visiting Brazil, a visa must be secured before leaving the USA. If you are planning a side excursion and renting a car, you should consider acquiring an International Drivers License. The Automobile Club of America (800-222-4357) issues them for a nominal fee. It takes about one month to receive your license by mail.

 

ADDITIONAL TRAVEL WITHIN CHILE:

If you have any additional time in Chile before or after your Earth River trip, our guide Maria offers some incredible one day or multi-day adventures in the Puerto Varas area including; trips to spectacular, turquoise Petrohue Falls, visiting the northern most Penquin colony in the world which is located on the dramatic Pacific coast of nearby Chiloe Island in a national park, or a trek around the base of snow-capped, Mount Fuji like Orsorno Volcano.  Maria is a professional trekking guide, bi-lingual with 25 years of experience. She has her own Subaru Outback so you won't have to rent a car and she can customize your extension trip in any way you choose. Maria can be reached at;  This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.    If you're interested in visiting Torres Del Paine National Park or Easter Island, our travel agent, Gilda, (see Air transportation section above) is from Chile (based in Miami) and is an expert on travel within Chile. She will be able to secure your additional flights, car rentals and hotels. The Earth River office can also help you with other extension ideas. 

 

FINAL PAYMENT:

The final balance is due 90 days prior to the trip's departure. If you paid your deposit by credit card, your balance will automatically be charged to you at the appropriate time. The r/t Puerto Montt to Chaiten flight ($250) will be added to the balance of your payment at that time. 

SINGLE ROOMS:

If you request a single room for the duration of the trip (8 hotel/lodge nights) you will be charged an additional $2,000.  If you are willing to share a room with a guest of the same sex and Earth River can find a roomate to share a double room with you,  there will be no additional charge.  If a roommate is not available then you will be charged an additional $2,000. 
NOTE: It is possible to share a room with someone of the opposite sex if both parties agree (The Earth River office will contact each of them ahead of time). Individuals have done this with no problem in the past to avoid paying the single supplement fee.

 

GEAR:

Earth River provides wetsuits. For a list of all additional gear you will need to bring for the expedition please see the gear list.

 

ADDITIONAL MONEY:

Generally, $700 per person will be adequate for guide tips, the taxi in Puerto Montt and any shopping you may want to do. If you are planning a side excursion you will want to bring considerably more. Remember, Chile is not inexpensive and most things are similarly priced to the U.S..  Car rentals and gasoline are considerably higher while public transportation much lower. You will be able to exchange money at the airport when you arrive in Santiago or at the airport in Puerto Montt. The exchange rate at the airport is similar to what you will find at a bank and much more convenient (banks often have long lines).

 

GRATUITIES:

Gratuities for the guides and help are not included. If you think the guides and help have done an outstanding job, 10 percent of the expedition cost per person is considered a normal tip. Usually a member of the group will collect the tip and hand it to the trip leader who will distribute it evenly among the guides and employees.

 

*IMPORTANT PACKING TIP:

Each season a few people (approx. 2 %) end up in Chile without their belongings. By the time they receive them from the airline, often the trip is nearly over. Because this is a real possibility we highly recommend the following steps to protect yourself. Pack all necessary river gear (fleece, paddle jacket, river shoes, hat, sun glasses, bathing suit, etc.) into the largest legal carry on bag you can find and don’t check it. Pack everything else including your soft, medium size duffle bag in a regular suitcase. This way if you become separated from you checked bag you will have the most important things for the river as well as the clothes on your back for camp.

 

GEAR STORAGE:

Because space and weight are limited on the charter plane from Puerto Montt to Chaiten, you will be allowed one bag, which cannot weigh over 28 pounds.  Any additional things needed for extension trips and the personal bag you flew down with can be left with Maria and safely stored until you return to the airport at the end of the trip. Remember unless you’re spending additional time in Chile before or after the expedition, pack only what’s on the Earth River gear list which will fit into you mrdium size duffle bag. Once you reach the river, we can collect your passports and other valuables and safely store them until the end of the river portion of the trip. NOTE: Upon your return to Puerto Montt, at the trip’s conclusion, the bags you left will be waiting for you at the airport with the Earth River representative.

 

WEATHER:

The Futaleufu is in Northern Patagonia and although December, January, February, March and April are mild months, the weather can vary from sunny in the low eighties, to rainy in the sixties and even fifties. The nights are generally in the low fifties but can go into the forties and on occasion upper thirties. You will definitely get wet from running the rapids or possibly rain and although the river water is 60 degrees, all participants must have on  a wetsuit. (We will supply you with a sleeveless, farmer John wetsuit.). You must also have high quality paddle gear and a good rain jacket with a hood.  Note: It is not possible to get an accurate current or future picture of the weather for the Futaleufu area via the internet. Often what you will be seeing is the weather for the Puerto Montt area, which is far cooler and wetter. IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU BRING ALL THE WARM THINGS INCLUDED IN THE PACKING LIST IN CASE WE HAVE SOME COLD WEATHER WHEN YOU ARE DOWN THERE.

 

HEALTH INFORMATION:

There are no required shots or health precautions that you need to take when traveling in Chile with the exception of a current tetanus booster, which is a good idea for any international travel. Although the water in the cities is generally safe to drink, we recommend that you drink either bottled water or soft drinks during the land portions of the trip. We boil the drinking water on the river. If you should need medical attention, there are modern clinics and hospitals throughout the country.

 

EMERGENCIES:

We have a sat. phone on the trip and can have a helicopter to the river in two to three hours. We also carry a defibulator on the rafts.  The guides are all EMTs or Wilderness first responders.

 

EMERGENCY CONTACT INFORMATION:

In case there is an emergency at home while you are away the following phone number should be given to a relative or friend: 845-626-2165 or 845-626-4361. The person should ask for Troy or Eric. In most cases we will be able to get important Information to you within a few hours. Remember, these numbers should only be used in case of an emergency. If you have a problem with a delayed flight while still in the U.S. contact Troy or Eric at the above number. Once you arrive in Chile if you have any problems or flight delays please contact the Earth River land guide, Maria. (Calling from Santiago, Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas; 09-95444941. Her email is: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.). Make sure to take her number with you.

General sign-up information

SECURING SPACE:

To secure trip space on the Magpie or Yavero expeditions, an initial deposit of $600 per person is required. On the Futaleufu multi-lodge trip, a deposit of $1,000 is required. The deposit on the multi-lodge trip is signifigantly higher because the rooms in the three lodges must be secured and payed for far in advance and are non-refundable.  You can make this payment by credit card (Visa or Master Card) or by check payable to: Earth River Expeditions. Your deposit should be mailed to the Earth River office (180 Towpath Road, Accord, New York, 12404), along with a completed registration form, signed liability release and signed terms and responsibility release. The hidden link section of the web site (small circled “c” in copyright) includes all the general information you need for the trip. Please fill out the medical form and sign the releases and send them back in the regular mail to the Earth River office (180 Towpath Road, Accord, New York, 12404). The Balance of Payment is due 75 days prior to the trip’s departure and may be paid by check or credit card. For your convenience, we will charge the balance to your credit card 75 days prior to trip departure.

 

Futaleufu Letter

Dear Futaleufu multi-lodge Participant:

Thank you for joining Earth River on this unique journey, the only multi-lodge river journey offered in Patagonia. Every effort will be made to make your trip a safe and enjoyable experience. This hidden link section of the web site was designed to help you prepare for your trip. Enclosed you will find information on equipment, weather, travel and other necessary information. Please read it carefully. If you have any further questions please contact our office.

IMPORTANT: When you send in your reservation form make sure to also includes the completed medical form as well as the signed liability and terms and responsibilities waivers. 

Your expedition has been limited to just 12 guests, (14 over the Christmas/New Year's holiday) the smallest group size in the industry. Smaller groups lessen waiting times during multi-sport activities and insure the intimate nature of the expedition. Often trips fill up and it is difficult to replace a late cancellation.  The lodges are also paid for in advance. Therefore it is mandatory that you purchase trip cancellation insurance to protect your investment in case you are unable to join the expedition.

The Futaleufu trip takes place during our winter and passengers should make sure that they remain in good physical condition. This trip is an “active” vacation, as you will be paddling rafts, inflatable kayaks, packrafts and standup paddle boards. You will also be canyoning, riding horses, hiking and mountain biking. Obsession Lake is one of the most spectacular and beautiful natural features in the Futaleufu Valley. Hiking up there and back in one day is the most arduous activity on the expedition. It is worth getting in shape for. For those guests not wanting to do the Obsession hike we have a wonderful alternative which includes horseback riding up the turqupoise Azul River Valley to a waterfall. 

As soon as you have secured your flights down to Santiago and connecting flight to Puerto Montt, please e-mail this information down to Earth River’s New York office at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so we know your schedule. The e-mail should include; Futaleufu trip date leaving US, flight # and arrival time into Puerto Montt, as well as the flight # and departure time leaving Puerto Montt at the end of the trip. Remember you should arrive in Puerto Montt on Friday (except dec. 26 and private charters) and should book your flight out of Puerto Montt at the trip’s conclusion after 4:30 PM. If you can not leave for Chile on Thursday but can leave on Friday, you can still join the trip as long as you can arrive into Puerto Montt by 10:30 A.M. Saturday morning to catch the commuter plane over to Chaiten. If you have any problems on you travel down (flight delays, etc.) please contact or land guide Maria. In Chile she can be reached by dialing 09-95444941.

Sincerely:

Eric Hertz

President 

“Earth River made an expeditionary first descent of the Futaleufu in 1991 and figured out how to safely navigate it."
"Earth River is the premier river runner in the world. Their staff includes the finest guides to be found."
“Earth River is more than a great whitewater outfitter. Their contributions have made a real difference in our efforts to preserve some of the world's most beautiful rivers in Chile and Canada."
"I want to personally thank Earth River for helping us stop the hydro-electric projects on our land preventing the destruction of one of North America's last great wildernesses.
“I’ve rafted with Eric Hertz down some tough rivers—the Futaleufu in Chile, the Colca in Peru. He's one of the best in the business—obsessed with safety."
“Earth River runs the only continuous, top to bottom, multi-camp, wilderness expedition on the Futaleufu. A week without roads, electricity or cell phones.”
“I’ve been on nearly all the commercially run rivers in the world and Earth River and the Futaleufu stand out as the very best of the best.”—Fred Wiedemann, Co-founder
"Earth River is the premier river runner in the world. Their staff includes the finest guides to be found."
“Earth River’s conservation effort on the Futaleufu is Herculean and represents the single largest river land trust endeavor ever initiated by a commercial outfitter."—Ronald Dodson, Pres."
"I want to personally thank Earth River for helping us stop the hydro-electric projects on our land preventing the destruction of one of North America's last great wildernesses.
“Earth River’s Futaleufu trip is an astonishment. The amazing camps, all different from one another, but all surprisingly and ingeniously comfortable”—David Rakoff
"I want to personally thank Earth River for helping us stop the hydro-electric projects on our land preventing the destruction of one of North America's last great wildernesses.